all my stalking and for any close range work I prefer to use a braid over any
other hooklink material. My favoured braid for tigers is Rod Hutchinson’s Edge
2000 HPPE braid in green. It has all the suppleness required yet retains enough
rigidity on the cast to avoid tangles.
Using a knotless knot, I fish the tiger
just off the back of the shank and find in most cases this approach brings the
greatest rewards. In addition, I usually favour a critically balanced
presentation. This may sound very complicated, but in essence, all you are
trying to do is make the hook bait react in the same way as the freebaits around
a bait punch and foam to create a critically balanced hook bait.
When a carp moves over a bait to
investigate, it will often suck and blow out really hard or wave its pectoral
fins to disturb the baits on the bottom. Those that lift up off the lake bed in
a natural motion will often look less conspicuous than those attached to a heavy
hooklink which remain anchored on the bottom – no prizes for guessing which
one the carp tend to avoid!
The way around this is to make sure your
hookbaits waft up off the bottom in the same way as the freebaits. The easiest
way to do this is to use a bait punch. Carefully work the punch through the core
of the tiger nut and remove the plug. You will then be left with a neat hole
through the nut. Simply place a piece of foam into the hole and trim off any
bits sticking out. That’s it; you can now attach the bait to the hair in the
normal manner. Ideally you want enough buoyancy so that the whole rig and nut
just sinks when placed into the water, ensuring it will react in exactly the
same way as the free offerings.